Grass Fed: Are you ready for a change?

To many, Grass Fed probably epitomizes exactly what a steakhouse should not be. It feels unsophisticated. The atmosphere is informal, the lighting is anything but dim and romantic, and there is not a ton of dark wood providing a backdrop to tinkling stemware and white linens. What a welcome awakening to the old rudimentary locations featuring live jazz and tuxedo-clad waiters scurrying about with carts for you fill in the blank dishes. To many people, this type of ambiance is it, as fancy as they will ever dine, and sometimes one needs a subtle reminder of where we’ve all come from.

Service: was interesting. In every steakhouse I have been to, someone asks a specific question about a cut of meat. Well, they were in luck because they only serve one cut (more on that later), but even still, the waitress seemed to be all over the place with even the most routine questions, i.e., what goes into “x” side. The waitress here apologized for not knowing the answer, but unlike many restaurants, didn’t offer to try to find out. Plus, despite the fact that many of the dishes came pre-seasoned (to some degree), the waitress failed to warn us, which caused quite the stir amongst the group. Poor form. Most of the servers at places like this – fairly new – are given a script, and I got the feeling that when the waitress was asked to step out of the script, she had no clue what to do. There is still work to be done on this front.

Other than these admittedly minor hiccups, service was top-notch throughout the evening, with several of the owners stopping by to pay a visit (and to actively take in the constructive criticism being lobbed their way). The waitress was quite affable, giving helpful advice, such as how we could split side dishes among our party to save a few dollars. There was no “up-sell” that I recall. Grade 8 out of 10.

Ambiance: I’ve pretty much painted the picture. The bar fits right into the theme, with an all white, clean and streamlined look, and serving up some of the best cocktails I have ever sipped on at a steak outing. Although none of the drinks were on special, they were all well worth it, especially the Bucktown Mule, with its house made and carbonated ginger beer that serves the right kick and so refreshing, especially on a 90 degree day. The restaurant feels large, and this is even without the all-white, modern feel. There are many seats throughout, which they can easily put together in order to accommodate a larger party, and afford it to talk comfortably amongst themselves. Unfortunately, there was no private space available for true private dining, but what else would you expect for a place that appears to be going over the edge to give you everything but formal. One caveat, the space used for the large groups is far enough in the back that you can still get the feel of privacy, but the foot traffic to and from the back patio may get a bit annoying. Grade 8 out of 10.

The Steaks (okay, the “Steak”): are not dry aged, but they were perfectly cooked; all were served exactly medium-rare all the way through, with the exception of the few in the party who opted for the tried and failed, “rare +”. The char was perfect, giving it a slight wonderful crust when we bit down. Although these were excellent steaks, loaded with flavor, the flavor is the big issue here. It is one thing to serve only one cut of meat (again, a great sirloin), but to then take it upon themselves to drown the steak in a magic sauce that is very heavy on the fennel was a disastrous move. The sauce MUST be optional, served on the side. As some of the members noted, not everyone loves the fresh taste of black liquorice when biting into their meat of choice to get that burst of flavor. Which reminds me, please do NOT cut into my steak as if to insinuate the help is needed because we’ve been throwing back Bucktown Mules for several hours before (even if that could be said for some in the group). Aside from making your guest feel as if they have reverted back to being 5 years old, by slicing into the meat you allow so much of the wonderful flavor to get loose. Depending on when the slicing takes place, the customer could be missing out on great flavor. I will say, however, that at least the slices were cut as thin as sashimi, into delicate little translucent strips. Grade 6 out of 10 (a 7 without the unwarranted and otherwise not informed of sauce de jour.)

Sides: are fairly large, easily enough to share between 2-3 people. However, even with going with the simple man’s theme that Grass Fed was shooting for, it is inexplicable to not have one of the most basic dishes that are a must with steak – mash potatoes – not to mention the fact that you can not get any more simpler than potatoes. I guess they attempt to get around this by serving the best frites I’ve had in a very long time. But still, lose the cauliflower and just give me the butter-garlic mash potatoes any day. Grade 6 out of 10.

For some, Grass Fed isn’t over the top enough, and just not worth it. For others, it is the ultimate dinner out when all you’re looking for is a good-tasting meal, in a fun atmosphere, and that won’t break the bank. Make no bones about it, this is not your Ruth’s Chris or Morton’s, but then again, you’ve got to know that going in and appreciate it for what it is: great drinks, cheap price, and a good cut of steak that will be perfectly cooked. The next time I look for a great piece of meat, but don’t feel like traveling down into the bowels of the city or being poo-pooed to death, or both, then I’ll keep this little neighborhood spot in mind. Overall 7 out of 10.